Taqueria Gonzales: Authentic Vibes on a Styrofoam Plate
First Impressions
I lived in Hendersonville for years before I even noticed this hidden taqueria off Kanuga. Situated near Dry Falls Brewery, Hendough, and Whit’s, it’s easy to miss. The building is a bit run-down, almost ramshackle. The parking lot is basically a gravel pothole—but all of this is a disguise. Get close, and you’ll notice the small, thoughtful touches: understated decorations, flowers placed just so, like they would be outside someone’s home.
This isn’t a place for tourists. You won’t find it in any guidebook. It exists to serve its own community first—and visitors should treat it with respect and humility. If you can handle all that, though, you’ll find some of the most authentic Mexican food in Western North Carolina.
Atmosphere and Service
Taqueria Gonzales is what it claims to be, and that is one of the best things about it. I has none of the pretension of the WNC food scene — no high concept menus, no matching decor, just a kitchen, cash register, some benches and the food.
Food is ordered at the counter, menu a dry erase board. Speaking Spanish certainly helps, but it hasn’t been a requirement during any of my visits. I do my best out of respect for the environment and the culture behind the food.
You check out on a cash register from the 90’s, and they only take cash. Nevertheless, once lunchtime hit, the taqueria was hopping. There was a line snaking out the door, the deteriorated parking lot fills up with work trucks. Everyone working outside nearby knows that this is the place to get quick, incredible food.
Don’t take my word on it; check it out for yourself.
Dish One: Carne de Res con Papas (Beef with Potatoes)
This dish is simplicity in the extreme and makes use of ingredients common to the working class over much of the world: meat and potatoes. While I am not the one to reach for potatoes at every meal, this dish was excellent. Again, it presents itself without pretension. It is what is is: beef and potatoes, but the spicing turns the dish on its head and is unfamiliar to my palate. Yes, there is the deep taste of tallow that undergirds most braised beef dishes, but there is more. The flavors are not quite what is used in tacos, less sharp, longer cooked, but they speak of their presence on the sides of your tongue. The potatoes are dry because that’s what happens to potatoes when you cook extensively, but it works pretty well with the abundant juices of the beef. The beans are rice and runny and dry respectively, but my son mixed them all together, and declared it amazing. All of this is served with corn tortillas with flavor strong enough to compliment the dish. Overall, it was a take on Mexican food that is not standard on menus. It was a good experience.
From Left to Right: Carne de Res con Papas, Tortillas, Gelatina, and Tacos de Asada
Dish Two: Tacos de Asada
In my opinion, tacos represent the quintessence of Mexican cuisine. Simple, clean, and efficient, they are nearly the perfect food. I understand that Mexican cuisine cannot be reduced to just spices or spiciness. Yet, when a dish is this minimalist, every ingredient must shine. Each component has to carry its weight; otherwise, the balance collapses and the sides take over.
Unfortunately, the carne asada this time didn’t rise to the occasion. The flavor lacked the depth and brightness needed to anchor the taco. I’ve been here before, and I know they can get it right—but today, it fell flat.
Dessert: Gelatina
Desserts are stationed by the cash register next to the drinks, prime location for an impulse buy. My curiosity was piqued, and I went for one that while being pretty standard in Mexican cuisine but was new to me. Gelatina is cubes of different flavors of Jell-o suspended in a cream-based gelatin solution. It is a sweet companion to the spicy food that shifts flavors with every bite. I mostly bought it for my kid, but I think I enjoyed it as much as he did.
Value
Pricing here is largely unlisted and very straightforward.
Tacos are $3.50. The dishes seem to be about $18.00. Others may be more, but they seem to be the same price.
Final Verdict
My singular experience with the tacos notwithstanding, I’ve been to Taquería Gonzales many times, and the food is undeniably authentic. What sets it apart is that it tastes like home cooking, not restaurant fare. The flavors are unpretentious and familiar, like something lovingly made in a family kitchen. Even when a particular dish misses the mark, the overall experience remains rooted in the real essence of Mexican cooking.
