Molka-GT: A Food Truck with a Future

First Impressions

Some restaurants scream for attention, lights, sounds, motions. Molka-GT hides. While it is true that they do advertise themselves as “the best Birria in WNC” on Instagram and Facebook, and they made an appearance at the Apple Festival, their footprint remains fairly minimal. That being said, there is brisk takeout trade even on a quiet Wednesday afternoon. Their menu is crisp and to the point, without the bloat that is common in Mexican places. This place has a niche, and it hits it hard.

Atmosphere and Service

There is very little to recommend Molka-GT in terms of location. It is in the parking lot of an unassuming/kind of sketchy car lot in south Hendersonville, but in this case, it adds to the experience. Subject to the unpredictable weather of WNC, sometimes it is just inconvenient to get to. Outside seating consists of park benches. Overall, the truck makes little attempt to be inviting, though they did recently add triple-sized umbrellas that help with the sun but not the heat. That said, if you're heading to south Hendersonville expecting Michelin-star ambiance, you might be a little lost. Try Biltmore if you want that world. Molka-GT is exactly what it claims to be: a roadside taco stand with amazing food.

The Food

Dish One: Birria Tacos with Consommé

A friend of mine whose opinion I respect more than he realizes once described tacos as the essential dish of Mexican cuisine. I suppose he is basically correct. If you are looking to maximize the volume of the food you eat, the beans and rice in burritos, tortas, gorditas, etc. may be a better option, but the taco contains the essence of flavor. A bit of onion, cilantro and squeeze of lime, and there it is.

At Molka-GT, the taco is as simple as can be. They’ll ask you if you want cheese, but they also make it clear that without is traditional. It comes with a Styrofoam cup of a broth with onions and cilantro for dipping.

The first thing you notice with the taco is the corn tortilla shell. Whether or not it is made in house - which is doubtful given the location - or it is brought in, the tortilla is not the traditional Maseca blandness. It has both flavor and a bit of crunch, probably due to the addition of liquids from the birria in the cooking.

The filling has all the hallmarks of a slow-roasted meat. It is tender, divided into longish strips with the muscle fibers of the beef. The spices are well-blended, difficult to differentiate - certainly cumin, tomatoes, chiles, black pepper, but more I cannot make out. All together, the core of the taco - the essence of its flavor - is about as rock solid as it can be.

The consommé is a perfect pairing for this dish. Flavorful as it is, the corn tortilla come across a little dry for the American palate. Dipping the taco into the broth adds a beefy, salty depth to the dish in addition to the crunch of the onion and cilantro. I end up drinking it every time I visit.

Overall, if you’re going to order only one thing at Molka-GT, order the birria tacos.

From left to right: simple nachos (side came free), Beef Consommé with onions and cilantro, Pork Volcano, Birria Tacos

Dish Two: Pork Volcano

When I have gone to Molka-GT in the past, I have generally stuck with the birria since it is what they advertise as their specialty, and I have never been disappointed. Both the loaded nachos and the quesabirria are great dishes, but my partner cannot eat beef, so I considered her plight, and I decided to review another option. The volcano was a surprising dish. It is a journey from the first bite, layers after layer. Even though the pork was a bit dry — probably a result of its slower turnover rate — it was well seasoned, and complimented the beans, pico, and guacamole. The beans added body and held their form, and while they were under salted, it was balanced by the seasoning on the pork, so it wasn’t an issue. The star of the show, however, was the base. A tortilla cooked, almost fried, caked with cheese that was on that perfect edge of being burnt, crispy with that caramelized umami flavor granted by the Maillard reactions. Think about a tortilla meeting the perfect grilled cheese. I cannot recommend it enough, and at $7.95 with a side of nachos, it may be one of the cheapest full meals that can be had anywhere that isn’t the worst fast food.

Value

The main dishes run $7.95 for the Pork or Chicken Volcano to $18.95 for the positively enormous large Quesabirria.
The quality here punches above its price point. Elsewhere, you'd easily pay $4–$6 more per dish.

At $3.75, each taco is a bit expensive compared to other local places, but it does come with Consommé, so it balances out. Two of them were probably enough food for me.

Final Verdict

Molka-GT doesn’t care about looks—and honestly, that’s kind of the point. It’s a taco truck parked next to a used car lot with a couple of benches and some oversized umbrellas. No frills, no fluff, just bold food that knows exactly what it’s doing.

The menu’s tight, the prices are right, and the flavors reflect a much higher price point. You’re not coming here for ambiance—you’re coming here because someone whispered, “trust me,” and handed you a taco that ruined all other tacos.

Skip the Yelp rabbit hole. Skip the trendy spots with neon signs and $18 margaritas. If you want real, this is it. Molka-GT is a hidden gem that’s not trying to be found—and all the better for it.