Papas and Beer: A Chain that Doesn’t Feel Like a Chain

I know. For the first post on the blog, I review a chain, but this establishment is WNC gem, and people do, in fact, eat here in droves.

First Impressions:

The place is almost always full, and parking can be a challenge — not just because of limited space, but also thanks to the occasionally questionable spatial skills of my fellow WNC drivers. From the outside, there’s nothing remarkable: muted yellows and ochres typical of many Mexican restaurants, a bit of outdoor seating, and a screen door that looks like it’s been swinging since the 1980s. But step inside, and you'll find a lively crowd — a diverse mix of ages, backgrounds, and cultures — all drawn in by the food.

Atmosphere
and Service

The reception/takeout/payment area are all in the same tiny foyer, which is simultaneously the walkway to some of the expanded and outside dining. In short, it can be a mess.

The wait staff, in my experience, is efficient and overworked, though not overly attentive. The feel of the restaurant is vibrant. Unpretentious people, enjoying their nights out with their family, people grabbing a quick lunch alone, and small parties are all common here.

The Food

Dish One: Lunch Fajitas Carnitas

The first thing you notice is that at lunch the leave off the ubiquitous sizzling skillet in favor of a brightly-colored plate that compliments the bright colors of the dish. Vegetables are generous and varied: red peppers, zucchini, and onions - all seared until they are flavored but not mushy - compliment the meat. Unlike most Mexican restaurants, both sour cream and guacamole - which is a step up from the standard green paste you often find - are included.

The carnitas are tender, full of flavor, and perhaps a bit dry, which is almost certainly a result of their having already been cooked and reheated. That being said, they are still pretty darn good, without the globules of fat you often find at similar restaurants.

The once major detractor from the meal is the rice and, to a lesser extent, the beans. While I will admit, I am not a huge fan of rice at an Mexican restaurant, but this rice is dry and has a very strong taste of being previously cooked and warmed. I solved this problem, but only eating enough of it to write this. The beans are a stronger addition, but this is likely the result of the generous helping of cheese. Underneath, the beans are a bit crusty on top and watery at the bottom.

Overall, the lunch fajitas are a good dish and an excellent value. The lackluster beans and rice are overshadowed by the generous and well-cooked vegetables. The quantity is sufficient for lunch and a snack if you are a light eater.

Dish Two: Steak Molcajete Burrito

Initially, the Molcajete Burrito seems standard fare for the Cali-Mex restaurant, a forearm-sized burrito smothered in cheese and sauce. That being said, altogether the dish doesn’t really work all on its own. While the meat inside is excellent -well seasoned and tender - the rest of the ensemble is off key. The beans inside are properly cooked -retaining their shape while tender - but almost entirely unseasoned.

The sauce is flavorful, but not an inspired sauce.

Finally, the whole thing disintegrated into a soggy mess within minutes, which may or may not be your thing.

All told, this burrito was merely fine. It was certainly not inedible, and the meat was very good, but it didn’t overbalance the lackluster beans and texture. The cold of the fridge did improve it by lunch the next day.

Dish Three: Chile Rojo Burrito

I simply didn’t like this burrito. I think it was the sauce, which I found entirely unappetizing, but I will try to give as objective an evaluation as I can.

Much like the above, it arrives as a veritable log of filling covered in cheese and red sauce. Inside is also basically the same, though the meat is not quite as flavorful as the beef in the other burrito. No beans, but there are onions and peppers in small quantities. The red sauce tasted basically like canned red enchilada sauce; there’s not much more I can say about it.

Dish Four: Shrimp Mazatlan Enchiladas

This dish was the surprising star of the meal. I usually don’t go for the enchiladas because I generally don’t love the sauce, but I was intrigued by the seafood aspect, and I needed to try something different for this article. The presentation is pleasing; the color of the plate contrasts with the white of the cheese and the green of the guacamole, and the balance of the plate is enhanced by the cup of beans across from the rice.

Perhaps the most impressive thing about the dish was that the shrimp was not terribly overcooked, which is usually the case even in good restaurants. Seafood is delicate, and it can be very easy to mess it up. It’s chopped, which is an unusual choice but makes for a more consistent bite throughout the meal. The rest of the filling is sauteed onions and very small pieces of de-seeded jalapenos. The sauce inside is a delicate cilantro-heavy white sauce that works really well with the shrimp. All told, a very surprising dish.

The beans on the side were cooked correctly, but again, somewhat unseasoned. You can taste the onion, cilantro, and tomatoes, but it could use more salt to bring out the flavor.

Value

Lunch: About $9-$15 per entree

Dinner: About $10-$20 per entree

Kids 12 and Under: $7.99 entree and drink

In terms of cost for anywhere near the Asheville area, Papas and Beer is quite affordable. The portions are easily such that you can make two meals out of most entrees, and you can splurge and get appetizers, drinks, and cheese dip without breaking the bank.

Bonus: A Chain that Doesn’t Feel Like a Chain

Ultimately Papas and Beer is a local chain stretching through WNC and into Greeneville, I have never gotten that sense from it, and there is debate among locals about which location is the best.There is no mass produced quality to the entrees, but the larger supply chain does keep prices down. That’s a pretty rare quality. Chains almost always sacrifice quality for quantity.

Final Verdict:

If you are looking for authentic Mexican food that sparkles with the local flavor and charm of Guadalajara, then look somewhere else. That’s not what this is selling. Papas and Beer is good at what it is: authentic Cali-Mex comfort food. Large portions, fairly fast, and decent quality, but don’t complain about the fact it is what it is. There are other places to get so-called authentic Mexican food. It is a WNC staple that locals will debate, eat, and complain about, and I certainly think anyone in the area for a few weeks should give it a try.